OSMO Ambassador, Brodie Raeside and owner of HEAVYHANDS in Ilkeston, Derbyshire talks to us about what’s trending this Autumn/Winter.
As we head into Autumn/Winter are you seeing the haircut and styling requests change? What is now trending?
I am seeing a lot more people moving to having more skin taper focussed styles rather than skin fade this autumn. For anyone who doesn’t know, a taper is just a miniature fade on each temple and on the nape of the neck, leaving the option to grow out the rest of the hair whilst keeping the client feeling fresh and the style more modern. A lot of these same clients seem to be growing their hair for autumn – into brushed or swept back styles with more length and movement on the top and sides, either straight back or more often with curtains or a side part.
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Can you talk us through the season style, how you create it, and how you make it something a little more unique to you?
With a swept back style it’s a similar formula for pretty much every client, I’ll cut square layers into the top and depending on the length of the sides or the stage of growth we’re at, I’ll either graduate the sides or cut in uniform layers. Either way, I will be directing my sections diagonally backwards to encourage the movement in that direction. I then establish the areas where I want my taper to begin with a 3 guard. Usually keeping this low, so I don’t cut off hair that we want to leave to grow out. I’ll do this low on the nape, under the occipital, and on the temple to the front of the ear at the top of the “sideburn” area. I will then work down in my guards in a descending fading technique to a 1.5, a 1, a 0.5 and then to a 0, trimmers and foils. I’ll use plenty of corners as this is a tight space to work in. Mostly the end 3/4 teeth of my clippers to integrate the lengths. And then scissor over comb to blend my taper, sometimes with a tapering scissor. I personalise these styles with the shape and size of the tapers some higher/lower/ more rounded etc. and also with different texturing techniques to suit different hair types or takes on the style. I’ll also sometimes leave a little disconnection in the front section (fringe) so that the hair remains longer there, especially for curtains. This section then falls more playfully and gives that effortless looking style.
Which Osmo products would you use to create that style, and can you explain which each one does?
For this style, I would apply Osmo Matt Salt Spray to the wet hair and really work it through before blow drying it in. This will swell the hair a little and give it that grittiness I need to hold my blow dryer and encourage the texture and movement I want. Once I’m happy with my blow dry, I will then apply Osmo Matt Clay Extreme, working from back to front really working the product in again. This provides a more solid hold for our shape and texture and ever such a tiny drop of moisture to the hair to bring the style to life. On shinier/finer hair types that maybe don’t like products with any moisture in, I’ll use the OSMO Power Powder, a volumising powder which is popular as it is completely dry but gives an insane hold and lift to the style. Then, I’ll finish with the Osmo Hair Spray to lock all that in.
What aftercare advice do you offer your clients to maintain healthy hair and scalp until their next appointment?
I encourage my clients not to shampoo their hair daily if they can help it, especially with longer hair, try and give it a couple of days between washes if you can. But to shampoo thoroughly when you do. Get those fingers stuck into that scalp. And to check out the range of shampoos, conditioners, and hair treatments that Osmo offer because again it’s a great range with varied products that may be more tailored to your client’s specific hair needs.
Have you had the opportunity to try the new Osmo Scalp Therapy 3 step system? If so, can you tell us a little more about it?
This is a new collection and we’re just starting to try it out in the studio. It’s a 3-step Scalp Therapy system that soothes, cleanses, and purifies the hair to help promote a healthy scalp. I know it’ll be a big hit within our clientele. It includes the Osmo Purifying Scalp Scrub with Sea Salt, Detangling Gel with Sea Minerals, and Replenishing Mask with Prickly Pear Oil. Depending on our client’s hair texture, length and scalp needs, we’re recommending the full system or individual products tailored to their needs.
We’re here for the longer lengths this autumn, time to think about keeping those ears warm!
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