With recent red-carpet events festooned with variations on the bob, there’s no doubt it’s the look of the season. Whether it’s a classic one-length, graduated, inverted or textured, today’s bob is all about personalisation. But whatever the specific variation, great cutting techniques remain the foundation, says HOB Academy international creative director, Akin Konizi and nominee for 2026 British Hairdresser of the Year. “The bob is a classic haircut which can be adapted to suit everyone, all face shapes and hair textures. It’s the technique and personalisation that makes it modern, changes its shape or enhances the lines. For the client it’s low maintenance and versatile.”
Akin’s top tips on cutting the perfect bob
Always start at the centre back of the head
All bob lines should begin at the centre back and flow seamlessly towards the front. This creates one continuous line with no visible joins. In most cases, the front should be the longest point to ensure a flattering finish — unless intentionally creating an inverted shape.
Master clean, straight lines
A classic bob demands absolute precision, so you need the ability to cut perfectly straight lines. That means a steady hand, correct body positioning and, crucially, extremely sharp scissors. Any inconsistency will be instantly visible in a bob, making technical discipline essential.
Control the interior shape
One of the most common mistakes in bob cutting is overworking the interior. If you remove too much weight internally, the shape can collapse and look flat. For a beautifully curved finish, the strength should remain in the perimeter, allowing the bob to hold its shape and sit effortlessly.
Choose the right bob for the client
There are many versions of the bob, and each will be more suited to certain clients. The main types of bob are:
- Classic bob: One length, chin-length, no layers
- Square bob: Strong perimeter with a bold fringe
- Graduated bob: Stacked layers for a rounded silhouette
- Inverted bob: Shorter at the back, longer at the front for a contemporary edge
Understanding which structure best suits the client face shape, hair type and lifestyle is key.
Let the cut do the work
A great bob shouldn’t rely on heavy styling. If the cut is strong, the hair will naturally fall into place. The ultimate sign of a great bob is one that looks equally as good air-dried as it does blow-dried, proof that the cutting has been done correctly.
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